It takes its name from Jonathan Livingston Seagull, Richard Bach’s novel about a gull who wants to fly higher than the rest of the flock. The gull carries the identity. It flies through a circle with a four-pointed star beside it, on coasters, totes, cards and the corner of the menu, over a line taken from the book: those who fly the highest see the furthest. The name, on the other hand, never sits still. It changes like the kitchen used to: blackletter over an orange table, sprayed acid green across a plate, outlined in cyan, spelled letter by letter down a photo of the kitchen, painted on a brick wall across the back of the staff tees.